Mushroom Dobin Mushi
Elizabeth Andoh
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Servings
4 to 6
These recipes are contributed by author Elizabeth Andoh to accompany PART FOUR of Washoku Wisdom, “Harnessing the Power of Steam.”
One of Elizabeth’s favorite Japanese steamed dishes is dobin mushi, named after the special teapot-like vessel (dobin) in which it is traditionally prepared and served. Fresh mushrooms are steamed with konbu, sake, usukuchi soy sauce, and citrus to create a wonderfully aromatic broth to sip alongside the savory mushrooms.
If you don’t have a dobin, the dish can also be prepared in small porcelain ramekins, soufflé dishes, or other heatproof vessels. Elizabeth also shares instructions below for improvising a flat-bottomed steamer at home.
Ingredients
- 1 pound assorted fresh mushrooms
-
4 to 6 inches Konbu, preferably a high-glutamate variety such as Rishiri or Rausu
- 2 tablespoons sake
- 1 to 1½ cups water
-
2 teaspoons Suehiro Usukuchi Soy Sauce
- 1 sudachi, or ½ lime or Meyer lemon
Directions
- I typically use a combination of shiitaké (remove the stems, using them to enrich stock, then slice the caps into 4 or 6 pieces), ruffled maitaké (“hen-of-the-woods”), and pearly-grey shimeji mushrooms, trimmed. Break large clusters into 4 or 6 segments.
- In Japan, however, matsutaké mushrooms are considered king; if you can source them, gently wipe with a dry cloth to remove any soil, but do not wash or peel. Trim and discard the very bottom if wiping does not remove unwanted bits of the forest that may still be clinging to the mushroom. Cut the mushroom in half so that the cap and stem are separated. Using your fingers, gently shred the stem portion (much like pulling string cheese); the irregular surface of these pieces will yield more flavor and preserve the crisp texture. With a sharp knife, cut the caps into paper-thin slices (the more surface exposed, the more intense the aroma).
- Use 4 or 6 small porcelain ramekins, soufflé dishes, or other heat-proof vessels, one for each serving. Place a 1-inch piece of kombu at the bottom of each vessel and moisten with saké (I use a pastry brush to do this).
- Divide the mushroom bits among the vessels, placing attractive cap portions on top. Combine the water and usukuchi soy sauce and divvy up this liquid among the 4 to 6 vessels. Cover each vessel with cooking parchment (tie in place to ensure vapors will not escape) or clear plastic wrap. Avoid foil, as it often imparts an unwanted metallic odor.
- Place the vessels on a flat steamer rack set over several inches of water. Place the steamer on the stove over medium heat. Cover your pot and cook for 2 minutes; begin timing when a steady flow of steam is emitted.
- With hands protected by potholder gloves or a thick towel, carefully remove the cover of your steamer and remove the dishes from inside. Set each soufflé cup on a serving dish (much like a cup on a saucer), placing a wedge of sudachi lime to the side. Serve immediately.
- If you have sourced classic dobin pots, lift the lid off the pot and add a squeeze of citrus juice. Re-lid the pot and pour broth into the small saké cup that sat, upside down, on the lid when the pot was first presented. Sip and savor. When ready, lift the pot’s lid again and nibble the savory mushroom bits inside.
- If you are using ramekins instead, carefully remove the parchment or plastic wrap (unpeel from front to back to savor aromas and protect hands from injury with heat) and squeeze some citrus juice over the mushrooms. Begin by savoring the aroma, then nibbling the mushrooms, finally drinking the warm broth last.
Recipe Note
Preparing dobin mushi requires a flat-bottomed steamer. Adjustable baskets or racks that are sloped or have a central pole or handle will not work. Neither will a double boiler, since the top pot must have a perforated bottom to allow steam to circulate throughout the vessel.
Professional kitchens in Japan use square metal steamers (they hold more, for the same burner space); most home kitchens have round ones. Chinese steamers, made of woven bamboo, that sit stacked above a wok filled with boiling water, are also popular in Japan. If you don’t already have a steamer (and don’t wish to buy one), you can improvise with a deep, wide pot (one that has a good-fitting lid) and several empty cans of the same height, tops and bottoms removed (most 5-oz tuna-fish cans are a good size). Fill your pot with several inches of water (your cans need to be at least 1/2-inch taller than the water level). Place your cans at intervals to keep a flat, heatproof plate steady on top of them. Your plate needs to be 1/4 to 1/2 inch smaller in diameter than your pot to permit steam to circulate well.
To prevent condensation on the underside of the lid from dripping onto your steamed foods, use a cloth cap. “Dew-Catcher” is the poetic name by which this highly practical piece of cloth that lines the inside of a steamer lid is affectionately called by many old-fashioned Japanese home cooks. You can easily fashion such a cap from sarashi cloth. Your cloth needs to be several inches larger than your lid. Lay the cloth on a flat surface, placing the lid, knob facing up, in the center. Gather up the edges of the sarashi, securing them with a rubber band around the knob; the lid cover will look a bit like it is fitted with a shower cap.