Miso Dengaku on a plate

PART THREE: Washoku Kitchen Wisdom from Elizabeth Andoh

This is the third in a series of quarterly posts from author Elizabeth Andoh. To read the first two post in the series, click here for PART ONE and click here for PART TWO.

一汁三菜 ICHIJŪ SANSAI "One + Three"

Generations of Japanese have been well nourished daily by modest meals following a simple pattern: soup, rice, and a few other dishes. This easy-to-compose menu model satisfies hunger while fulfilling nutritional needs. The soup provides hydration and becomes a vehicle for delivering many water-soluble nutrients (vitamins, minerals). Rice and other grains supply energy-giving carbohydrates and feeling-full fiber. The few other dishes balance out whatever essential elements (protein, fats) might be missing from the broth and rice.

The Japanese describe these humble meals as ichijū sansai: “One + Three.” This phrase evokes a mental image of a tray set with soup, a featured food (often fish or meat but vegetarian and vegan options abound) and two side dishes. Because the Japanese word gohan means both “a meal” and “cooked rice”, rice is not included in the culinary math. There are 5 items on “One + Three” trays.

Elizabeth Andoh artfully arranging Japanese bowls on meal trays

Elizabeth artfully arranging bowls on meal trays - from November 2024

There are lots of recipes available on this website that you can use to assemble your own One + Three meals. And, I’ve added another recipe for miso dengaku, a deeply savory sauce to slather on vegetables, seafood, poultry and/or tofu. In keeping with the philosophy of “using food fully” that permeates the washoku kitchen, scraps from celery, leeks and onions are used to fortify this sauce’s flavor.

Two images showing Elizabeth Andoh cutting tofu and spreading miso on the tofu

Cooking with Elizabeth - from November 2024

Miso dengaku sauce can be assembled in less than 30 minutes and stored for a month or more in the refrigerator. Having miso dengaku sauce on hand is a great way to jump-start meal-making when you’re super busy. Spread on scallops or fish and briefly broiled it makes a great main. Or slather the sauce on blocks of well-drained tofu, broiled to make Dengaku (NEW recipe) or thick slices of eggplant or zucchini to transform them into satisfying plant-based main dishes that vegans, vegetarians and omnivores, alike will love.