August 2024
This was my second attempt to see the konbu harvest on Rishiri island. The first time was in August of 2019 when my family and Takehiro’s family were on holiday together. At that time, a typhoon spoiled our chance. After Chris and I saw the Rausu konbu harvest last summer, we were hell bent on seeing the Rishiri harvest this year. So, we set the plan with Uneno-san and Takehiro to go to Rishiri this August. It was extra special because my family, Takehiro’s and one of Uneno-san’s friend’s families were also invited to join in the journey.
The plan was for everyone to meet at Okadama airport for the flight to Rishiri. When we arrived, we were told that the flight had a 50/50 chance of departing due to weather. It was basically a game time decision. As our departure time approached, we were told the flight was set to depart, but if weather on Rishiri was bad, we would need to turn back. To further set the scene: the Okadama airport is so tiny, the baggage scanner is next to the check-in counter.
The plane held maybe 50 people and had propellers, so this was going to be an “exciting flight”. We walked out to our plane on the runway and boarded, the flight took off, and we were on our way. The young person seated next to me started a conversation and through my broken Japanese and his broken English, I found out he works for Fire & Rescue on Rishiri Island, saving people off Rishiri-san (Rishiri mountain) year-round.
View of Rishiri-san
If you have not seen Rishiri-san, it is like a mini Fuji-san (Mt Fuji) but on an island. Rishiri Island is a pristine place. Because there are no farms (animal, rice or other), the rains that flow off of Rishiri-san into the ocean are full of nutrients and without pesticides. This makes for incredible seafood and konbu. Speaking of seafood, when we arrived, it was also uni season. Interestingly, konbu fishermen will sometimes fish for uni instead of konbu, depending on the conditions.
As we began our descent into Rishiri, the plane hit heavy turbulence, and I thought we might have to turn back to Okadama. To say I was nervous would be an understatement…I was completely terrified! As we bounced around, I closed my eyes and much to my delight , I soon heard the familiar sound of wheels hitting the tarmac. We had safely landed. I looked back at Motafusa Uneno, who hates flying, and we shared the look of “We made it!”. When we deplaned, I said goodbye to my new Fire & Rescue friend, then we all met up with a large group of Rishiri fishermen and their families. We received quite the warm welcome. Loading into a bunch of fishermen’s cars, we were off to our lodging.
Greg's son, Dash, and Uneno-san after landing on Rishiri Island
Our accommodations were spartan but comfortable. This type of guest house, a minshuku, is more like a basic B&B than a hotel. Our rooms had tatami floors and futons. There were no showers or tubs, just shared restrooms and communal sinks. The hosts, a local couple, were warm and welcoming.
The first stop after dropping off our luggage was up to the local onsen, a quick 10-minute walk up the street (I wonder how that walk would be in the winter?!). If you know anything about me, you know I love onsens, and this one did not disappoint. Being there with our families and the local fishermen was very special. Not to mention the view from the outdoor onsen pool into the surrounding forest.
After the onsen, we headed back to what I can only describe as one of the biggest, freshest seafood feasts ever with uni being the shining star. We were treated to a delicious local sake that has an interesting story. While made on the mainland, the water used to make the sake is taken from Rishiri-san’s natural spring. As the night pressed on, people started to gradually fade one by one.
The next morning, during a lovely breakfast prepared by chef/owner Saito-san, we learned the fiserhman would be primarily diving for uni due to the tides that day, so we would visit the processing facility instead. When we arrived, we met Kannari Makoto, a local konbu fisherman and some others processing the konbu.
Learning from Kannari-san
What Chris and I soon realized is that Rishiri’s konbu processing is very different from how they do it in Rausu. There are 23 steps to process Rausu konbu and by the end of those steps, it is ready to be used. Whereas Rishiri konbu is not processed nearly as much, because the magic is in the aging, which is what is done by companies like Uneno.
In Rishiri, how konbu is grown, harvested, and processed is both similar to yet completely different from the way they do it in Rausu. While there is both wild and farmed konbu in Rishiri, most of it is farmed. In mid-December the farmed konbu is seeded on ropes that are then placed in the ocean. The next autumn (usually in November) it is thinned out. And then the following June & July it is harvested, making the konbu about 18 months old when it is harvested. When harvested early in the season, the konbu doesn’t have to be cleaned, just hosed down. Later in the harvest, it needs to be washed and scrubbed in machines similar to those used in Rausu.
A konbu fisherman at work
Takahashi-san demonstrating the traditional work of a konbu fisherman.
The konbu is harvested by fishermen in small open boats, using “konbu binoculars” to spot the konbu and a T-shaped wooden tool called shiba to pluck the konbu from the bottom. This is very similar to what we saw in Rausu. After being brought back to land, the konbu is dried. Most (70%) is dried the preferred way, which is in the open on rocky beaches or fields. The remaining is dried in drying rooms. Drying is a labor-intensive and meticulous process where the goal is for the konbu to dry enough to lose 20% of its weight. The konbu is laid out by hand on stone beaches starting at 5am. Of course, it is not as simple as just laying the konbu down on the beach, it must be placed with the correct side facing up. When holding a fresh piece of Rishiri konbu, one side has two bumps, resembling two gentle hills. The opposite side has just one bump, which is the side that lays directly on the beach. If it is placed on the wrong side, the konbu will curl. Fishermen can also lay a net over the top of the konbu to keep it from curling. The fishermen then come back at 3pm. If the konbu is not dry enough, they pick up all of the pieces and store them in a wooden box overnight and repeat the process all over again the next day. If the konbu is sufficiently dry, it is packed up and brought to the processing facility.
Drying the konbu
At the processing facility the konbu is kept at 50-55% humidity, making it a bit softer and easier to work with. It is then graded, cut, pressed, and packaged. Rishiri konbu is graded by weight, length and “injury”. The longer and heavier, the better. Injury just means any damage to the physical appearance, like cuts or where uni was eating it. Also, later in the harvest, plankton can attach themselves to the konbu, burrow inside, and damage it. Similair to Rausu, boxes of Rishiri konbu have colored bands around them that indicate the grade of the konbu inside, A black band means they are ungraded, yellow is third grade, blue is second grade and green is first grade. In November, it is shipped off the island to auction, where konbu suppliers like Uneno-san purchase it. As mentioned above, Uneno-san’s job is to age the konbu in his warehouse in Kyoto. Uneno-san believes that Rishiri konbu should be aged for at least three years, and anything less results in a rougher taste.
Over the next few days, we experienced many aspects of the Rishiri harvest firsthand and also enjoyed some summer fun on the island. There was a sweet local omatsuri (festival), a great hanabitaikai (fireworks display), a muddy but fun hike part way up Rishiri-san to drink its wonderful water, a drive around the island seeing different natural wonders, and tasting of a local specialty homemade fermented milk drink. Rishiri is a very special place, and I felt so fortunate to have my family experience it with me.
Summer fun on Rishiri Island